What is Knitted Fabric?

Knitted fabric is made by forming yarn into loops with special needles and linking each loop to the loops before, after and beside it (Dönmez, 2008). In weaving, two sets of yarn cross at right angles; in knitting, the yarn forms interlocking chains of loops (NPTEL; CottonWorks). This loop structure gives the fabric natural stretch and lets it hug the body (Dönmez, 2008). T-shirts, joggers, sweaters, socks and underwear are made of knitted fabric (Marmaralı, 2004, cited in Dönmez, 2008).

Knitted fabric structure

In knitted fabric the horizontal rows of loops are called courses and the vertical columns wales (CottonWorks). The face made of knit stitches is generally used as the front and the face made of purl stitches as the back (Marmaralı, 2004, cited in Dönmez, 2008).

In knitted fabric the greatest stretch is usually along the courses, that is, crosswise, but this does not hold for every fabric, and the stretch should be tested before buying (University of Kentucky Extension, 2006). Compared with a knit, plain-weave woven fabric resists stretching better in the main directions and looks similar on both faces, whereas the front and back of a weft knit made of simple loops look different from each other (NPTEL).

Weft knit vs warp knit

Knitting is divided into two main groups, weft knitting and warp knitting (Dönmez, 2008). The table compares them.

A circular machine arranges its needles in a cylindrical bed and so produces fabric in tubular form (Dönmez, 2008); flat machines are used for products such as sweaters (CottonWorks). In the Turkish industry the single-bed circular machine is also called a “single jersey machine” (süprem makinesi) and the double-bed machine a “rib machine” (ribana makinesi) (Çeken, 2008, cited in Dönmez, 2008). The “towels” in the warp-knit column of the table refers to products made with a knitted structure; woven terry cloth, made from a ground warp, a pile warp and a weft, is a different fabric.

Main knitted fabrics

• Single jersey: knitted on a single-bed machine; crosswise stretch is about twice the lengthwise stretch, and the cut edge curls (CottonWorks).
• Rib knit and 2x2 rib: double-bed; in the Turkish market the most-used “ribana” is 1x1 rib and “kaşkorse” is 2x2 rib (Dönmez, 2008). Rib stretches to about twice the width of single jersey and, if properly knitted, does not curl (CottonWorks).
• Interlock: made by knitting two 1x1 ribs into each other; both faces look the same, it is very stable and does not curl (CottonWorks).
• Piqué: has a micro-mesh (small-hole) texture on the surface; used in polo shirts and sportswear (CottonWorks).
• Two-thread and three-thread fleece: an extra yarn is knitted with floats on the reverse (CottonWorks); in the trade they are described as brushed or unbrushed (Uyanık, 2023). CottonWorks calls the brushed types fleece and the unbrushed type French terry, and regards three-end fleece as the most stable and fullest fleece structure.
• Polar fleece: a brushed, mostly polyester knit (see the polar fleece entry).

Double-bed (double-knit) fabrics are more stable than single-bed ones and curl less (CottonWorks).

How to tell knit from woven

1. Look through a magnifier: in a knit the yarn forms a chain of loops; in a woven fabric two sets of yarn run at right angles (Dönmez, 2008; NPTEL).
2. Test the stretch: knitted fabric stretches by itself; the stretch of a woven fabric is limited by yarn properties and weave structure (Dönmez, 2008). Woven fabric with elastane, or a stable interlock, can blur this rule.
3. Look at the cut edge: a weft knit curls at the ends, runs and unravels (CottonWorks). A warp knit does not curl or fray when cut horizontally (CottonWorks); the edge check alone is therefore not enough, so use it together with the first two steps.

In specifications and testing

In a knitted fabric order, state the structure (weft or warp, fabric type), the fiber, the yarn, the machine gauge and the weight together. The number of courses and wales per cm is measured by EN 14971, and the mass per unit area on a small specimen by EN 12127, which applies to woven and knitted fabrics. Dimensional change after washing is determined by ISO 5077, and the washing and drying procedure by ISO 6330. For weight ranges see fabric weight for T-shirts, hoodies and joggers, and for T-shirt fabrics see T-shirt fabric types; a general comparison of knit, woven and nonwoven fabrics is in the fabric types guide.

If you are looking for a fabric supplier, see the knitted fabric category.

Frequently asked questions

What is the difference between knitted and woven fabric?

In knitting, yarn is formed into loops and the loops intermesh; in weaving, warp and weft cross at right angles. The loop structure gives knits natural stretch; the stretch of woven fabric is limited by yarn properties and weave structure (Dönmez, 2008).

What is the difference between weft and warp knitting?

In weft knitting, loops are formed one after another in the horizontal direction by adjacent needles; in warp knitting, loops are formed in the vertical direction from separate lengthwise yarns (CottonWorks). A weft knit can unravel across the width; a warp knit generally does not unravel (Dönmez, 2008).

Is tricot (Turkish: triko) the same as knitted fabric?

The name means different things depending on the source. TDK defines the Turkish word triko, derived from tricot, as a type of wool fabric produced by knitting. The Pratt Institute uses the name tricot for a warp-knit fabric, mostly knitted from synthetic filament yarn. In a quotation, state the structure (weft or warp, fabric type) and the fiber instead of writing “triko”.

Does knitted fabric shrink in the wash?

Dimensional change depends on the fiber, the yarn and the finishing. It is measured by ISO 5077, with washing and drying to ISO 6330 procedures; ask the supplier for the length and width change after washing.