T-Shirt Fabric Types: A Buyer’s Guide to Jersey, Piqué, Interlock and Rib

Five factors that change a T-shirt fabric

Two fabrics sold as “single jersey” can make very different T-shirts because of yarn, weight and finishing. When you compare quotations, these five factors show what is actually changing:

In English cotton count (Ne), a higher number means a finer yarn (Ne = 590.54 ÷ tex; Cotton Incorporated, ISP 1006, 2003).

Example: two suppliers both quote “single jersey, 100% cotton, 160 g/m²”, one with combed ring-spun yarn and a shrinkage-control finish, the other with carded yarn and no finish. On paper the weight matches; in wear the two fabrics will not behave alike. To explain a price gap, ask for the yarn type and Ne count, the state in which the weight was measured, and the limit for length and width change after washing.

For fabrics beyond T-shirts (wovens, nonwovens, denim), see our guide to fabric types. Which weight to choose is covered in fabric weight by product; here GSM appears only as ranges for comparing fabrics.

The main T-shirt fabric types

Four knit structures dominate T-shirts. The table compares them; how each behaves in a T-shirt follows below.

* Not standards: indicative figures from supplier and training pages (sources listed; 2026 pages accessed in October 2026). They differ by source: upper limits run from 180 to 220 for single jersey, 260 to 350 for interlock and 260 to 280 for rib. Research samples can fall outside these ranges: Ne 30/1 rib at 125–145 g/m² and piqué at roughly 140–170 g/m² (raw or target weight; studies reported in Dönmez, 2008), and wet-relaxed interlock at 245–271 g/m² (Jamshaid et al., 2021). Weight depends on yarn count, machine gauge, stitch length and the state of measurement (raw, finished, relaxed), so rely on the supplier’s data sheet and your own measurement. 1 oz/yd² ≈ 33.9 g/m².

Single jersey: the general-purpose T-shirt fabric

Single jersey is a fine, light fabric knitted on a single-bed circular machine, also sold simply as “jersey”. Cotton Incorporated describes it as common in T-shirts, underwear and swimwear, and notes that cut edges curl and stitches can run, so cutting and sewing must manage the curl. Cotton knits are prone to dimensional change; ISP 1009 calls them very sensitive to applied forces and energy. Single jersey is the general-purpose choice for basic and printed T-shirts, and what separates one from another is mostly yarn quality, weight and finishing.

Piqué: polo and textured T-shirts

Piqué alternates regular stitches with tuck stitches on certain feeds, giving a raised-and-recessed surface. In Turkey it is widely called “lakost”; Lacoste is a brand name, and the fabric is piqué (also spelled pique). Cotton Incorporated describes it as suited to hot climates because of its visible micro-mesh structure. Its technical bulletin adds that tuck stitches make the fabric wider and less stretchy than single jersey, and that length-wise shrinkage is typically markedly higher than width-wise, so check length change after washing. Besides single cross-tuck, variants include double cross-tuck and six-feed (Cotton Incorporated, Textile Encyclopedia). Naming varies in the market, so state the variant you want and back it with a reference sample.

Interlock: a full and stable handle

Interlock is formed by knitting two 1×1 rib structures into each other. According to Cotton Incorporated, face and reverse look the same, it is very stable and does not curl, and from combed cotton yarn it can be very soft. In a T-shirt that means a cut edge that does not curl and no problem if the reverse shows. The trade-off is weight: supplier pages list interlock in a higher range than single jersey. Compare the two by yarn count as well as GSM, and if the price is per kilogram, calculate the cost per metre (formula below).

Rib: collar trim or body fabric?

In a T-shirt, rib appears in two places. One is the collar band, cuffs and hem: Cotton Incorporated describes rib as a structure for collars, cuffs and waistbands, the same on both sides, with cross-wise stretch about twice that of single jersey. The other is fitted styles whose body is cut from rib; training pages cite fitted garments and baby and children’s wear (TextileTuts, September 2026). For a relaxed fit, use single jersey or interlock for the body and rib for the collar, and specify that the collar rib matches the body in fibre and colour.

Slub, heather and other variations

Slub and heather (melange) are yarn and colour effects, not knit structures, and can appear on single jersey and similar structures. A slub yarn (Turkish: flamlı) has thick places of varying length and thickness along the yarn (Cotton Incorporated, Textile Yarns). Heather (melanj) is a mottled look from blending fibres of different colours; for heather yarns the blend can be made at the drawing (sliver) stage.

Turkish T-shirt fabric terms decoded: süprem, penye and more

Quotations from Turkish mills and suppliers often use local trade names. This table maps the common ones to the English terms for your tech pack.

“Penye” causes the most confusion. In Turkey it is often used as a fabric name (“penye süprem”, “penye T-shirt”), but it is a yarn process, not a structure. The word comes from French peigné, “combed”: cotton is cleaned of short fibres, neps and small dirt particles on a combing machine. Cotton Incorporated (ISP 1006, 2003) says combing improves yarn evenness, handle, strength and lustre, and that finer yarn counts are mostly spun from combed cotton. Yarn that skips combing is called carded.

So single jersey, like interlock, can be knitted from combed or carded yarn. The Turkish Language Association dictionary (TDK) also lists penye as a type of fine fabric, which keeps the fabric sense alive but says nothing about structure. Write structure and yarn separately: “Single jersey, 100% cotton, Ne 30/1 combed ring-spun yarn, 160 g/m²”.

Ring-spun versus open-end (rotor) spinning is a further distinction. According to Cotton Incorporated, ring yarn is the strongest, finest, softest and most expensive; open-end yarn is more even and cheaper, but harder in handle and weaker. For detail, see combed, carded and open-end yarn.

Fibre choice: 100% cotton or a blend?

Fibre sets how a T-shirt reacts to moisture, washing and printing.

The basis: Cotton Incorporated (ISP 1009, 2004) states that synthetic fibres do not show cotton’s swelling-and-shrinking behaviour and that cellulosic fibres cannot be stabilised as easily as heat-settable synthetics. Cui et al. (Polymers, 2025) summarise that hydrophilic fibres absorb moisture well but transport and release it poorly, and the opposite for hydrophobic fibres. Hossain et al. (Heliyon, 2021) mention that polyester increases pilling, but their study is on three-thread polyester-cotton fleece, not T-shirt jersey, so read it as directional. Peneva et al. (2021) found a linear relationship between elastane share and stretch in knits with 2–6% elastane (punto di roma jersey).

For a summer T-shirt, do not rely on the fibre name alone: structure, weight and yarn also affect moisture and air permeability. See fabrics for hot weather.

Best fabric for T-shirts by use

Treat this as a starting point and decide on a sample.

Best T-shirt fabric for printing: DTG and sublimation

The print method limits the fabric composition. According to trade publications, direct-to-garment (DTG) printing is traditionally used on 100% cotton or cotton-polyester blends (Textile World, October 2018; Digital Output, February 2019); 100% polyester needs a polyester-specific pretreatment. Those publications are from 2018–2019 and ink and pretreatment options have changed, so confirm current compatibility with your printer. In sublimation the dye bonds to polyester fibres: SanMar U’s March 2024 guide says that in blends below 65% polyester the dye does not bond to cotton and washes out over time, so sublimation does not suit a cotton T-shirt. Surface matters too: the same guide finds smooth fabrics more suitable for sublimation than textured ones, and as a general principle, flat single jersey or interlock and textured piqué may not carry the same detail with the same sharpness. Test the target print on the actual fabric before production. For a comparison of methods, see textile printing methods.

Writing a T-shirt fabric spec and approving samples

Suppliers quote what you write. Describe each fabric in one line, with the body fabric and the collar rib on separate lines:

• Body: single jersey, 100% cotton, Ne 30/1 combed ring-spun yarn, 160 g/m² [tolerance and state of measurement], 180 cm open width, shrinkage-control finish.
• Collar rib: rib knit, same fibre as the body, colour matched to the body lot.

Also ask the supplier for the yarn type and Ne count, the state in which GSM was measured, whether the quoted width is open or tubular, the limit for length and width change after washing and its test method, and whether the price is per kilogram or per metre. This guide does not cover minimum order quantity or lead time, which vary by supplier; have both confirmed in writing for your specific construction, yarn and colour.

To convert a per-kilogram price into cost per metre: weight of one running metre (g) = GSM (g/m²) × open width (m). At 160 g/m² and 1.80 m open width, one metre weighs 160 × 1.8 = 288 g, so the cost per metre is the price per kg × 0.288. At 240 g/m² and the same width it is 432 g. State which width you mean, so open and tubular width are not confused.

Sample approval checklist

1. Ask for a swatch card and samples. A swatch (colour) card shows look and handle; dimensional change, pilling and colour fastness need measurement on a washed sample.
2. Record weight and width with their state of measurement. EN 12127 (small-sample mass per unit area, for woven and knitted fabrics) can be used. In ISP 1009, a 100% cotton single jersey knitted from Ne 30/1 combed ring-spun yarn on a 28-gauge (E28) machine measured 135–149 g/m² as delivered, depending on treatment, and 155–176 g/m² relaxed. Write the tolerance into the contract.
3. Test dimensional change in washing. EN ISO 6330 sets washing and drying conditions, EN ISO 5077 the calculation of dimensional change, and EN ISO 3759 specimen preparation and marking. State the programme and limit in the contract. For knits, also check spirality (side seams twisting to the front or back): ISP 1009 reports that high-twist single-ply cotton yarn generally gives higher shrinkage and more twist, while rotor (open-end) yarn shows less fabric and garment twist than ring yarn.
4. Have pilling measured. The modified Martindale method is defined in EN ISO 12945-2; the result depends on yarn, finishing and blend ratio.
5. Ask for colour fastness. From the ISO 105 series, specify at least washing (EN ISO 105-C06), rubbing (EN ISO 105-X12) and perspiration (EN ISO 105-E04).
6. Prevent lot variation. Compare the approved sample with the production lot for weight, width and colour, and match the collar rib colour to the body. ISP 1009 describes relaxation drying, a compactor and chemical cross-linking used together as able to give the best results for both residual shrinkage and lot-to-lot consistency.
7. Read certificates correctly. OEKO-TEX STANDARD 100 is a test and labelling system for harmful substances. Its standard text states that the label is not a quality label and says nothing about fitness for use or reaction to cleaning processes (Edition 01.2026). It does not guarantee fabric performance such as shrinkage and pilling; request separate tests.

According to the Estonian standards body EVS records, the standard editions in the source list are current as of this article’s date (October 2026). Check the current edition with ISO/CEN or your national standards body before writing a standard into a contract.

Summary: how to choose

Single jersey in combed yarn is a good starting point for general-purpose and printed T-shirts; piqué for polos, interlock for a full and stable handle, and rib for collars and fitted styles. Write structure, composition, yarn, weight and finishing into the spec and confirm them with a sample. If you are looking for a fabric supplier, browse the knitted fabric category in our company directory, and the single jersey and piqué listings.