Types of Garment Samples: Proto, Fit, Size Set and PP Sample

Types of garment samples at a glance

Quantities come only from Sarkar (Online Clothing Study; 2011, 2015, 2018) and vary by buyer; the order specification binds the factory.

Garment sampling process: what happens at proto, fit, size set and PP

Proto sample: what it shows and who sews it

The proto sample is the first showing of the design and garment structure; fit and fabric detail are not judged at this stage (Sarkar, 2011). If the real fabric is not yet at the factory, a fabric of similar quality is usually used (Sarkar, 2018). It is made from the tech pack (teknik föy) and the pattern; at a Turkish workshop a sample sewer (model makinacı) sews it in a pattern room (modelhane) or sample workshop. The buyer comments on structure and details; measurement and fit comments wait for the fit sample. Sarkar (2018) has at least three pieces sewn in one size, two of them sent to the buyer.

Fit sample: how fit and measurements are checked

The fit sample is sewn after the proto is approved, to real measurements, and tried on a live model or dress form; the pattern is corrected if needed (Sarkar, 2011). Sarkar (2018) has it sewn to tech pack measurements in the middle size, 2–3 pieces, and notes that resubmission is more frequent at fit than at other approvals. The pattern maker (modelist) applies the corrections; for pattern services see pattern making and grading in Turkey.

Size set sample: how grading is checked

The size set sample is sewn in jump sizes (such as S, L and XXL) to check grading and consistency between sizes; the buyer checks the samples and reports corrections to the factory (Sarkar, 2011; 2018). Sarkar (2018) adds that some buyers ask for it before the PP sample and others after PP approval, so state in the quote at which stage and in which sizes you want it.

Sales (SMS) and photo-shoot samples

The sales sample (SMS, salesman sample) is shown in a showroom to help the buyer forecast demand; it uses real fabric and trims, and the buyer pays the developer (Sarkar, 2011). The photo-shoot sample serves catalog and e-commerce images and some styles need neither (Sarkar, 2018); the sources give no payment rule for it, so agree in writing whose account it is on.

PP (pre-production) sample: the last approval before bulk

Buyers ask for the PP sample to be sewn on the real production line, by line operators, with the style's real fabric and trims (Sarkar, 2011); the point is to see construction and machine problems before bulk production starts (Sarkar, 2015). Sarkar (2015) also writes that in practice the PP sample is often made in the sampling department under the merchandiser and the sampling master, so ask where it was sewn (item 1 of the checklist below). Bulk production does not start until the buyer or buying office approves it.

If the buyer finds differences, it either asks for resubmission or approves on condition that the corrections are made during bulk production (Sarkar, 2015). According to Sarkar, 3–4 PP samples are sewn per style: one for the buyer, one for the factory's production department, and the rest as internal references for the merchandiser and the quality team. The approved sample is sealed and returned to the manufacturer as the reference; AQL inspection also refers back to it, with the defect list and visual standards.

TOP and shipment samples: after production starts

The TOP (top of production) sample is a few pieces taken from bulk production to check that the factory follows the PP specification; not every buyer asks for it. Sarkar has the pieces taken from the middle of production (2011) or randomly from the first production run (2018), and checked by the buyer's quality team. The shipment sample is 2–3 packed finished pieces kept for later reference by the factory and the buyer (Sarkar, 2011).

Other names for the same samples: what the terms in emails mean

Buyers name the same sample differently, and the sources do not use every term alike. Turkish quotes may attach numune to these English names, as in "PP numune". Agree in writing which sample each name means.

Who does what in sampling?

How many rounds of samples do you need?

No sourced fixed number of rounds exists. Sarkar (2018) says the order depends on the buyer, not every sample goes to the buyer, and some styles skip sales or photo-shoot samples, so this guide gives no average. The framework below is a Tekstil Rehberi recommendation:

Put the number of rounds, the time of each and the price of an extra round in the quote, and weigh them with the criteria in how to choose a CMT workshop in Turkey.

Sample approval form: how to write comments and approval

A verbal approval is hard to prove later. Tekstil Rehberi recommends one email or form with numbered comments, photos and a measurement comparison. The T-shirt fit form below is hypothetical; the numbers are made up, not norms.

The tolerance column is blank on purpose: tolerance varies by style and buyer, so take it from the tech pack and the buyer's specification.

State which kind of approval is given:

Example approval text (hypothetical):

We approve the PP sample for [style code], received on [date], on the condition that the two attached corrections are made during bulk production. Reference piece: tagged sample A. Approved by: [name, role]. Date: [mm/dd/yyyy].

If the style, quantity, size split or lead time changes after approval, renegotiate price and time. SOMO (September 2015) lists changes to design, production volume and schedule after sample approval, without adjusting price or timeframe, among the buyer demands that put pressure on manufacturers and can trigger hidden subcontracting. Put the approval and change clause in your supply contract and take legal advice on its wording.

Keep an identical copy of the approved sample at the factory; after buyer approval, production and final inspection run against that reference (INFLIBNET e-PG Pathshala; Sarkar, 2015).

PP sample checklist before you approve

This Tekstil Rehberi checklist draws on the pre-production checklist headings in Sarkar (2011; 2015) and Wave PLM (June 5, 2026). Answer each item yes, no or note.

1. Line and crew: Was it sewn on the real production line by line operators, or in the sampling department?
2. Fabric: Is it production fabric; do lot, weight (GSM) and color match the approved reference?
3. Trims and labels: Do zipper type and number, buttons, thread and label placement match the approved references? See zipper types and sizes.
4. Print and embroidery: Do color and placement match the approved sample?
5. Measurements: Are they within the tech pack tolerances, with the fit and size set comments applied?
6. After washing: If the product will be washed, is the shrinkage allowance accounted for? Try the shrinkage calculator.
7. Workmanship: Do stitch type, pressing and thread cleanliness match the tech pack?
8. Packing: Do folding, polybag, hanger and carton label follow the buyer's instructions?
9. Records: Are the approval email (who, channel, date, status) and the reference piece saved, and is the approved PP named as the reference in the AQL specification?

Sample lead time and fees: what to ask in the quote

There is no general standard or official tariff for sample fees and lead times, and the figures on vendor pages are undated and tied to their own service terms, so this guide gives no average. Published sampling times differ; sourced ranges are compared in private label clothing manufacturers in Turkey. In the quote, ask for:

• A separate lead time and fee for each sample type (proto, fit, size set, PP).
• Whether the sample is charged, and whether its fee is credited against the order if you place one.
• Whether a revision round is charged, and the price and time of an extra round.
• Who brings the fabric and trims, on what date, and how the schedule moves if they are late.
• Whether courier or transit time is added to every round.
• Whether the bulk lead time (termin) counts from the PP approval date or from the day the materials arrive.

To find sample sewing workshops, see garment sampling services in Turkey.

Next steps

To see where sampling sits in the production flow, read the garment manufacturing process. Decide which rounds you want before you request quotes.