What is Cardigan Stitch (Selanik)?

Cardigan stitch (Turkish: selanik) is a thick, full-looking weft-knit structure in which tuck stitches and knit loops are made alternately on a double-bed machine. In the academic literature the Turkish term corresponds to “cardigan” (Cüreklibatır Encan and Marmaralı, 2023); this entry says “cardigan stitch” so that it is not confused with the garment. The TDK (Turkish Language Association) dictionary defines selanik as “a kind of knit pattern used in scarves, cardigans, etc.” (our translation). Selanik is a structure name, not a fiber or a brand; the composition and weight on product pages vary from seller to seller.

What does selanik mean?

“Selanik” names both the knit structure and the fabric knitted in it. The Basic Knitting module of the Turkish Ministry of National Education (MEB) counts selanik among the circular knitted fabrics produced on double-bed rib machines (MEB, 2011). An academic study compares five structures: 1x1 rib, half selanik, selanik and their “double-tuck” derivatives (Cüreklibatır Encan and Marmaralı, 2023). Turkish course pages also call it “full selanik” (tam selanik; Tekstil Dershanesi).

Trade use of the name is flexible. One producer describes selanik as a densely knitted fabric known for its transversely embossed ribbed texture and makes it in 100% cotton at 290–300 g/m² (Altunkaya Tekstil). Another supplier presents it as a thick, full-handed knit, mostly cotton-acrylic (Vefa Kumaş). Writing only “selanik” in an order is therefore not enough: also write the structure, the composition and the weight.

Cardigan stitch structure

A tuck forms when a needle that already holds a loop takes a second loop and holds it behind the old loop. Tucks leave gaps in the fabric, increase thickness and reduce lengthwise stretch (Cüreklibatır Encan and Marmaralı, 2023). The structures are distinguished by the tuck ratio in the repeat:

In “double-tuck” types the tucks are knitted in succession on the same needle. According to a course page, both faces of full selanik look the same, while the two faces of half selanik look different (Tekstil Dershanesi).

Measured properties

Cüreklibatır Encan and Marmaralı (2023) knitted five structures with the same yarn and machine setting: 100% acrylic, Nm 14/2 yarn, on a 10-gauge (10 needles per inch) V-bed machine. The results are limited to acrylic yarn and a single study; they do not carry over directly to cotton or polyester selanik.

Three findings stand out:

• Weight does not tell thickness. The 1x1 rib was the heaviest fabric (483 g/m², 14.2 oz/yd²) but the thinnest (3.59 mm); selanik was lighter at 363 g/m² (10.7 oz/yd²) and thicker at 4.62 mm.
• A thick structure holds heat. The thermal resistance of selanik was about 1.6 times that of 1x1 rib, and its water-vapor permeability was lower.
• Pilling varies. Half selanik and double-tuck half selanik received the best grade (4–5) and selanik the lowest (3); the method is TS EN ISO 12945-1.

Fabrics confused with selanik

• Rib knit (1x1 rib): made of loops only. In the same study it was heavier but thinner than selanik and showed higher water-vapor permeability. See rib knit.
• Interlock: the MEB module places interlock in a separate machine group, double-bed interlock machines, and mentions selanik among rib machines (MEB, 2011). See interlock.
• 2x2 rib (kaşkorse): MEB mentions selanik and kaşkorse in the same sentence as separate fabrics. See 2x2 rib knit.

What to specify when sourcing selanik

1. Do not rely on the name alone: state the structure (selanik or half selanik, double-tuck or not), the fiber (as a percentage) and the weight together.
2. Ask for the weight with its condition: greige or finished. To calculate g/m² from a sample, use the fabric GSM calculator; to convert between kilograms and meters, use the meter-kg calculator.
3. Ask for the pilling result: TS EN ISO 12945-1. In the study, selanik received the lowest grade.
4. Put selanik shrinkage in the report: the ISO 5077 result should come from ISO 6330 washing and drying procedures. One course page mentions a shrinkage risk in high-temperature washing (Tekstil Dershanesi).
5. Ask for measurements behind comfort claims: EN ISO 9237 for air permeability, EN ISO 11092 for thermal and water-vapor resistance.

For a broader overview, see the knitted fabric entry and the knitted fabric manufacturers and suppliers in Turkey category.

Frequently asked questions

Is selanik breathable?

Selanik is a thick structure that holds heat; because of its weight, a course page considers it unsuitable for summer products (Tekstil Dershanesi). In a study with acrylic yarn, the thermal resistance of selanik was 0.1264 m²K/W against 0.0806 m²K/W for 1x1 rib, and the relative water-vapor permeability was 22.43% against 30.87% (Cüreklibatır Encan and Marmaralı, 2023). If the fiber changes, the result changes too; ask for the values of your own fabric. For measurement methods, see breathable fabrics.

Is selanik knitted or woven?

Knitted. TDK defines it as a knit pattern, and the MEB module counts it among the knitted fabrics produced on double-bed rib machines.

What is the difference between half selanik and selanik?

Half selanik has 4 tucks and 12 loops per repeat, selanik 8 tucks and 8 loops. In the study, selanik was thicker (4.62 mm against 4.03 mm) and had a higher thermal resistance (0.1264 against 0.0999 m²K/W); the highest bending rigidity was measured in half selanik.