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French Terry and Two-Thread Fabric Manufacturers in Turkey

French terry (two-thread, iki iplik) fabric manufacturers and suppliers in Turkey for sweatshirts, hoodies and seasonal joggers. Pin down brushing, composition and GSM tolerance in the quote.

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Key facts

  • According to CottonWorks, a two-end fleece whose reverse is not brushed is called French terry in the trade; the brushed version is fleece.
  • In two-thread fabric, a ground yarn forms the face and a backing yarn that makes long floats forms the reverse (Uyanık, 2023).
  • Supplier pages give two-thread GSM ranges that differ from each other and span 150–320 g/m² overall; there is no standard classification.
  • In 100% cotton samples, a higher backing-yarn share raised GSM from 188 to 197 g/m² and thickness from 0.73 to 0.81 mm (Uyanık, 2023).
  • According to Cotton Incorporated, tumble drying brings out all the shrinkage remaining in the fabric (ISP 1009); test the sample under the drying condition on the care label.

Guide to French Terry

Elif Karaca Fabrics and Fibers Editor
Last updated:
Fact-checked by:
Gizem Polat

French terry, or two-thread fabric (iki iplik in Turkish), is one of the core fabrics of sweatshirts, hoodies and seasonal joggers: a ground yarn forms the face and a backing yarn that makes long floats forms the reverse (Uyanık, 2023, a Turkish university journal study). The structure is explained in the two-thread fleece glossary entry. The main issue for buyers in this category is naming: different companies may call the same fabric “iki iplik”, “French terry”, “two-thread fleece” or “brushed two-thread”. Write the structure in your own words in the quote.

What a French terry quote must state

  1. Reverse: Unbrushed (what the trade strictly calls French terry) or brushed?
  2. Composition: One knitted-fabric manufacturer's two-thread range includes cotton-based blends (for example 72% cotton, 23% polyester, 5% elastane) and viscose-based blends. Have the percentages written.
  3. Ground and backing yarn: The counts and the backing-yarn share. In a study of 100% cotton samples (Ne 30/1 ground yarn, Ne 20/1 backing yarn, 28 gauge), as the backing-yarn share rose, GSM rose from 188 to 197 g/m² (about 5.5 to 5.8 oz/yd²) and thickness from 0.73 to 0.81 mm (Uyanık, 2023).
  4. GSM and state of measurement: Supplier pages show ranges for two-thread that differ from each other, spanning 150–320 g/m² (about 4.4 to 9.4 oz/yd²) overall; the samples Uyanık measured fell in the lower half of these ranges. There is no standard classification. Write the target GSM with its tolerance and the state in which it was measured. A ±5% tolerance appears on two supplier pages, but it is a contract clause, not a standard.

Ask a French terry supplier about color minimums, drying, brushing and location

  • Color and quantity: The minimum order per color (MOQ) for two-thread varies widely from company to company. See the knitted fabric page for examples of company claims, and get a written quote for your own color list.
  • Drying condition: If the care label will recommend tumble drying, have the sample tested that way. According to Cotton Incorporated, tumble drying brings out all the shrinkage remaining in the fabric (ISP 1009).
  • If you want brushed fabric: Write the pilling test and the pass grade into the contract. The method can be EN ISO 12945-1 (pilling box) or EN ISO 12945-2 (modified Martindale).
  • Location: French terry has no product code of its own in TOBB's database. Under the general knitted-fabric code (13.91), Istanbul accounts for 698 of the 1,294 firms holding a valid capacity report, Bursa for 139 and Tekirdağ for 108 (October 2026). These figures cover knitted fabric makers in general, so confirm through the province filter and the company's quote that a given firm actually knits French terry.

Season and product

One supplier page recommends two-thread from spring to early fall and three-thread fleece for fall and winter. If your product is a sweatshirt, you can also look at sweatshirt and hoodie manufacturers. The fabric weight (GSM) guide by garment type helps with choosing the weight.

Sources (10)

  1. CottonWorks (Cotton Incorporated), Learning Hub: Single & Double Knits (accessed October 11, 2026)
  2. Uyanık, S. (2023). The Effects of Backed Yarn Ratio on Fabric Properties in Two-Fleece Fabrics [Turkish original: İki İplik Örme Kumaşlarda Farklı Astar İpliği Oranlarının Kumaş Özelliklerine Etkileri]. Çukurova University Journal of the Faculty of Engineering, 38(3), 819–826 (in Turkish)
  3. Cotton Incorporated, A Guide to Improved Shrinkage Performance of Cotton Fabrics (ISP 1009), 2004
  4. EN ISO 12945-1:2020 Textiles - Determination of fabric propensity to surface pilling, fuzzing or matting - Part 1: Pilling box method (EVS record)
  5. EN ISO 12945-2:2020 Textiles - Determination of fabric propensity to surface pilling, fuzzing or matting - Part 2: Modified Martindale method (EVS record)
  6. Fersan Tekstil, Gramaj Haritası: 60–500 g/m² kumaş rehberi (fabric weight map; knitted-fabric manufacturer; in Turkish; updated October 3, 2026; accessed October 11, 2026)
  7. KARCEM, Knitted fabrics: types, GSM table and production (knitted-fabric manufacturer technical page; in Turkish; updated September 26, 2026; accessed October 11, 2026)
  8. Altunkaya Tekstil, 2 İplik ve 3 İplik Farkı Nedir? (What is the difference between two-thread and three-thread?; wholesale fabric supplier blog; in Turkish; July 20, 2024; accessed October 11, 2026)
  9. TOBB Industry Database, capacity reports by province, product code 13.91 (accessed October 11, 2026)
  10. Sasteks Örme, Two-Thread Knitted Fabric product page (knitted fabric manufacturer; undated; in Turkish; accessed October 11, 2026)

Frequently asked questions

Are two-thread, French terry and brushed fabric the same thing?

They are closely related terms. CottonWorks says that in the trade, a two-end fleece whose reverse is not brushed is called French terry, and the brushed version is fleece; academic studies also examine brushed two-thread fabrics. One manufacturer describes two-thread as a knit that can be lightly brushed, while a supplier page says two-thread cannot be brushed. State separately in the quote whether the reverse is brushed.

What GSM is French terry or two-thread fabric?

There is no standard range. Supplier pages give ranges that differ from each other, spanning 150–320 g/m² (about 4.4 to 9.4 oz/yd²) overall, and the cotton samples measured in a Turkish study (188–197 g/m², about 5.5 to 5.8 oz/yd²) fell in the lower half. Write the target GSM with its tolerance and the state in which it was measured, and confirm it on a sample.

Does cotton two-thread fabric shrink in washing?

It can, and more in length than in width. In unbrushed 100% cotton two-thread samples, shrinkage after washing and drying was 1.7–2.3% in width and 6.7–7.3% in length (Uyanık, 2023; the paper states that the samples were unbrushed but does not mention any other finishing). These values cannot be generalized; leave a length allowance in joggers and sweatshirts and write the post-wash measurement into the spec.

How are the minimum order and lead time settled for French terry?

The minimum per color varies widely from company to company and there is no standard; one wholesale fabric company states a minimum of 50 kg per color and delivery in 2–5 working days (October 2026; company claim). When ordering from production, minimums and lead times can vary with the fabric type, the number of colors and stock availability. Get a written quote for your own color list and have the minimum and the delivery date written in.

What does the price of French terry depend on?

The composition (cotton-based or viscose-based blend, elastane percentage), the counts of the ground and backing yarns, the backing-yarn share, the GSM and whether the reverse is brushed should each be written separately in the quote. A higher backing-yarn share raises GSM and thickness in the same fabric (from 188 to 197 g/m² and from 0.73 to 0.81 mm; Uyanık, 2023). Because cost per meter rises with GSM even at the same price per kilogram, convert quotes to cost per meter before comparing.