What is Viscose (Rayon)?

Viscose is a regenerated cellulose fiber: cellulose is chemically dissolved and re-formed into fiber. The EU fiber-name list defines viscose as a regenerated cellulose fiber obtained by the viscose process (Regulation (EU) 1007/2011, Annex I). In the US, the generic name in the FTC’s own list is rayon, and the rules also accept ISO 2076 fiber names (16 CFR 303.7). Like cotton, viscose is cellulose-based, but it is not harvested from a plant; it is manufactured. That is why it counts as a group of its own, between natural fibers (cotton, wool) and synthetic fibers (polyester); modal and lyocell belong to the same group. Turkish suppliers write it as viskon.

How viscose is made

The raw material is wood-pulp sheets or cotton linters. The sheets are steeped in sodium hydroxide solution, pressed, shredded and aged. They are then treated with carbon disulfide to form cellulose xanthate, which is dissolved in dilute caustic soda. After the thick solution has rested and been filtered, it is forced through fine holes into an acid bath, where the cellulose solidifies again as fiber (NPTEL). Carbon disulfide is an environmentally problematic chemical; according to one review, only 70–75% of it can be recovered in production (Zhang et al., 2018, citing Chen et al., 2015).

Properties of viscose

• Moisture: The moisture allowance that the EU regulation accepts when calculating fiber content is 13% for viscose, 8.5% for cotton and 1.5% for polyester (Annex IX). In other words, the regulation accepts a higher allowance for viscose than for cotton.
• Wet strength: Standard viscose loses about half of its tensile strength when wet (it keeps 50–55% of its dry strength). When wet it becomes unstable and may stretch or shrink (Zhang et al., 2018).
• Elasticity and abrasion: The fibers are not elastic, so abrasion resistance is low; some properties are similar to cotton (NPTEL).

Where is viscose used?

The main uses of standard viscose are apparel and home textiles (Zhang et al., 2018). It appears alone or in blends in knitted structures such as single jersey and in woven fabrics such as poplin and chiffon (see the fabric types guide). For measured data in a summer-fabric context, see breathable fabrics for summer.

Viscose, modal, lyocell and similar names

Sources: EU 1007/2011 Annex I and Annex IX; Zhang et al. (2018), Tables 1–2 and p. 4586 (modal’s wet strength is stated according to the Annex I definition).

• Rayon: In the US FTC rules, rayon is the generic name for regenerated cellulose fibers; the most common type, standard rayon, appears under the name “viscose” on labels (Zhang et al., 2018). The FTC definition mentions lyocell separately within the rayon group, whereas in the EU list viscose, modal and lyocell are three separate fiber names.
• Bamboo viscose: A fiber made from bamboo cellulose is not a “bamboo fiber” but a regenerated cellulose fiber. The FTC states that in the US only products made directly from bamboo fiber can be sold as “bamboo”, and that fiber regenerated from bamboo must be labeled with a name such as “rayon” or “rayon made from bamboo” (FTC, August 2009).
• Cotton: Cotton is a natural fiber obtained from the seed capsule (boll) of the cotton plant (EU 1007/2011, Annex I); viscose is re-formed in a factory.

What to check when buying viscose fabric

1. Write the composition with percentages. Viscose, modal and lyocell are separate names in the EU list; keep them separate in the specification too.
2. Ask for dimensional change after washing, measured by ISO 5077 with washing and drying to ISO 6330 procedures. Viscose can shrink when wet.
3. Treat the care label as the reference. Dry cleaning is recommended for most rayon garments; some can be washed by hand or machine (FabricLink).

You can find viscose fiber suppliers in the Textile Fibers category and viscose yarn suppliers in the Viscose Yarn category.

Frequently asked questions

Is viscose natural or synthetic?

Neither. The raw material is plant cellulose, but the fiber is re-formed by a chemical process, which is why it is called a regenerated cellulose fiber.

Are viscose and rayon the same?

In everyday use they usually describe the same fiber: the name in the EU list is viscose, the name in the US FTC list is rayon. In the US definition, rayon is a broader group that also includes lyocell.

Does viscose fabric shrink?

It can become unstable and shrink when wet, so a post-wash dimensional change test and the care label matter.