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Contract Workshops and Services

Fabric Cutting Services in Turkey

Contract cutting rooms in Turkey that do marker making, spreading, cutting and laser cutting of fabric. Compare companies that also number, apply interlining to and bundle the cut pieces.

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Key facts

  • In this guide, contract cutting means cutting fabric into garment pattern pieces; laser cutting of fabric and appliqués is included, wood panel cutting for furniture is not.
  • Turkey's Ministry of National Education (MEB) modules list cutting room work as fabric checks, relaxing, marker and spreading, cutting, numbering, interlining, piece checks, sorting and bundling.
  • Knit and elastane fabrics are spread without tension and relaxed before cutting; Turkey's MEB cutting module teaches opening circular-knit fabric from the roll at least 24 hours before cutting.
  • Turkey's MEB cutting module stresses that wrongly cut fabric may not be reusable, so list in the quote which steps (marker, numbering, interlining, sorting) are included in the price.
  • Per the MEB module on final operations in the cutting room, numbering is needed when rolls differ in color and to keep pieces apart through printing, embroidery and other intermediate steps.

Guide to Fabric Cutting

Hakan Şahin Garment Production Editor
Last updated:
Fact-checked by:
Gizem Polat

Contract fabric cutting means spreading fabric according to the marker (pastal in Turkish) and separating it into pattern pieces. This category covers cutting rooms (kesimhane) and contract cutting workshops that cut fabric for garment manufacturing; it does not cover wood panel cutting for furniture. Workshops that cut fabric and appliqués with lasers are also listed here. Workshops that also sew and add cutting to their quote are under CMT sewing; here you find companies that offer cutting as a separate service. Companies that sell cutting machines are under fabric cutting machines. Companies that prepare the pattern are under pattern making. The rest of the chain is listed under contract workshops and services.

What does a contract cutting quote include?

The term "contract cutting" can describe different scopes. The vocational modules of Turkey's Ministry of National Education (MEB) set out the cutting room job as a chain: fabric receiving inspection, relaxing, marker and spreading, cutting, numbering, applying interlining, piece inspection, sorting and bundling. Mistakes in cutting are expensive: the MEB cutting module stresses that wrongly cut fabric may not be reusable. So have the quote list which steps are included in the price.

Ask the cutting room about the marker, relaxing and output

  • Marker and fabric consumption: Who prepares the marker? Marker efficiency decides consumption; see marker planning and fabric wastage for the methods.
  • Relaxing: Knit and elastane (stretch) fabrics are spread without tension and left to relax before cutting; the MEB cutting module teaches opening circular-knit fabric from the roll and spreading it at least 24 hours before cutting. Does the workshop have space for this, and has the time been added to the lead time?
  • Fabric experience: The risk of waste rises with patterned (checks, stripes), directional (such as velvet) and slippery fabrics. Has the company worked with similar fabric?
  • Method and capacity: Does it cut with hand-operated cutting machines or with a computer-controlled machine? How many plies and pieces can it cut per day?
  • Output: Does it do numbering, interlining and bundle tickets? Ask for the pieces to be delivered to the sewing room by count, with a ticket showing size, quantity and cut number.

Cutting price depends on ply count, number of pieces and pattern matching

The fabric type and number of plies, the number of pieces in the style, pattern matching, who prepares the marker, whether numbering, interlining and sorting are included, and lot size set the price. Have the quote say whether the price is per garment, per piece, per ply or per meter; two quotes in different units cannot be compared directly.

Hand over fabric against a signed record and compare cut pieces with the sample

Fabric and bundles of cut pieces travel between the cutting room and the sewing workshop. Hand over fabric against a count and a signed record, and have leftovers and wastage written on the same record. After cutting, have the pieces checked against the sample before they go to sewing. The place of cutting in the production flow is explained in the garment manufacturing process; to estimate the fabric that will go into the marker in advance, use our fabric consumption calculation.

Sources (4)

  1. T.C. Millî Eğitim Bakanlığı (Turkish Ministry of National Education), MEGEP, Giyim Üretim Teknolojisi: Kesim (Cutting), 542TGD003, Ankara 2011 (Ankara University OpenCourseWare copy; in Turkish)
  2. T.C. Millî Eğitim Bakanlığı (Turkish Ministry of National Education), MEGEP, Giyim Üretim Teknolojisi: Kesimhanede Son İşlemler (Final Operations in the Cutting Room), 542TGD180, Ankara 2008 (in Turkish)
  3. T.C. Millî Eğitim Bakanlığı (Turkish Ministry of National Education), MEGEP, Giyim Üretim Teknolojisi: Tişört Dikimi (T-Shirt Sewing), 542TGD008, Ankara 2011 (in Turkish)
  4. T.C. Millî Eğitim Bakanlığı (Turkish Ministry of National Education), MEGEP, Giyim Üretim Teknolojisi: Serim (Spreading), 542TGD177, Ankara 2006 (in Turkish)

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Frequently asked questions

What should I prepare before sending fabric to a cutting room?

The approved pattern, the quantity split by size and color, a roll list (roll number, meters or kg, width), marker instructions (direction, pattern matching, interlining positions) and any relaxing request. Compare the incoming fabric lot with the fabric on the approved sample and report any difference in writing.

Why are cut pieces numbered?

According to the module on final operations in the cutting room from Turkey's Ministry of National Education (MEB), numbering is needed when there is a color difference between fabric rolls or between the start and end of a roll, and so that pieces do not get mixed up in intermediate processes such as printing and embroidery. The ticket carries the order, size and color numbers and the running number of the piece.

Who is responsible for fabric wastage in cutting?

There is no single rule; it must be written in the quote and the contract. Settle in advance who prepares the marker, what the estimated consumption is, whom any excess is charged to and how leftover fabric will be returned, and record the fabric going in and coming out in a signed count record.

What determines the price of contract cutting?

The fabric type and number of plies, the number of pieces in the style, the need for pattern matching, who prepares the marker, whether numbering, interlining and sorting are included, and lot size set the price. The price may be quoted per garment, per piece, per ply or per meter; two quotes in different units cannot be compared directly.

How long does contract cutting take?

The lead time depends on the date the fabric reaches the cutting room, who prepares the marker and when, relaxing for knit and elastane fabric, extra jobs such as pattern matching, and the cutting room's daily capacity, so no general number of days can be given. For relaxing, the cutting module of Turkey's Ministry of National Education (MEB) teaches opening circular-knit fabric from the roll and spreading it at least 24 hours before cutting. Ask for separate dates for cutting, numbering and dispatch to the sewing room.