What is Velvet?

Velvet is a woven fabric whose surface is covered with a short, dense pile formed by warp yarns. CottonWorks describes velvet as a warp-pile fabric with a woven cut pile: the pile is cut to a uniform height, which gives the fabric a lush, soft hand. The TDK (Turkish Language Association) dictionary defines kadife, the Turkish word for velvet, as a glossy, soft fabric whose surface is covered with fibers left at a set length (our translation).

Velvet structure

The Getty Art & Architecture Thesaurus describes velvet as a warp-pile weave in which an extra warp, woven above the ground fabric, is raised into loops over rods during weaving; the loops may be cut or left uncut. According to CottonWorks, most velvets are woven as two fabrics, separated at the loom or in a later operation. Pile height is under 1/8 inch (about 3 mm); for taller piles the source uses the name plush. A high number of pile yarns per inch improves the appearance and hand of the fabric (CottonWorks).

Velvet is not a fiber name. Random House lists silk, nylon, acetate and rayon, and mentions velvet whose back is sometimes cotton; Collins says silk, cotton and nylon; Getty AAT says “usually silk”. State the fiber and its percentage separately in the quotation.

Velvet, velveteen, corduroy and velour

Pile direction and cutting

Velvet is a directional fabric. TextileGlossary recommends cutting velvet with the pile running up for the deepest color, and cutting all pieces in the same direction. The MEGEP Spreading module of the Turkish Ministry of National Education likewise requires one-way spreading for directional fabrics such as velvet and plush, so that the nap runs in the same direction as the garment. Because the direction constraint limits marker planning (pastal), fabric consumption can be affected. For the calculation, use the fabric consumption calculator; for spreading methods, see the garment manufacturing process guide.

What to specify when sourcing velvet

1. Name the pile structure: warp-pile velvet, velveteen, corduroy or knitted velour; also state the fiber and its percentage.
2. Ask for the sample with the pile direction marked: because all pieces are cut in the same direction, keep the pile direction constant on the sample and on the rolls when comparing shade differences.
3. Ask for the weight in g/m² and the method. Mass per unit area from small samples is measured to EN 12127; to calculate it from a sample, use the fabric GSM calculator.
4. Ask for dimensional change after washing and rubbing fastness: ISO 5077 with ISO 6330 procedures; ISO 105-X12 for rubbing.
5. Get ironing and care instructions in writing: quality velvet should be handled carefully and pressed on a velvet board (TextileGlossary).

To find suppliers, see velvet manufacturers and suppliers in Turkey; for the wider framework, see the fabric types guide.

Frequently asked questions

Is velvet breathable?

Velvet is the name of a pile structure, not a fiber. It can be woven from silk, cotton, nylon or another fiber, and sweating varies with fiber, pile structure and weight. No fabric stops sweating. Verify claims such as “breathable” or “keeps you warm” with air permeability (EN ISO 9237) and water-vapor resistance (EN ISO 11092) values. How to read the measurements is covered in breathable fabrics.

Is velvet the same as velveteen?

No. The pile of velvet comes from warp yarns, the pile of velveteen from weft yarns (CottonWorks). Velveteen is made to resemble velvet and its pile is shorter than velvet’s.

Is velvet woven or knitted?

Warp-pile velvet is woven. The TDK dictionary treats velur as the equivalent of velvet, while CottonWorks describes knitted velour as a sheared terry-looped knit. State in the order which one you mean, using the structure name.