What is Garment Marker?

A garment marker is the layout plan that shows how the pattern pieces of a model are arranged on the fabric; the aim is to fit the pieces within the fabric width with as little gap as possible and so reduce waste. Turkish factories call it pastal. The same word also names the fabric plies spread on the cutting table for cutting: in English the plan is the marker and the spread plies are the lay.

What does pastal mean? Marker, lay and spreading

In the cutting room pastal has two meanings, and the context shows which one is meant. The spreading module of the Turkish Ministry of National Education (MEB) uses “cutting layout plan (pastal planı)” and also calls the spread fabric plies “pastal” (pp. 6 and 16).

A peer-reviewed article with Turkish and English abstracts pairs pastal planı with “marker plan” and pastal verimliliği with “marker efficiency” (Pamuk and Yıldız, 2016). Matching lay to the spread plies is Tekstil Rehberi’s pairing of Sarkar’s (2017) definition with MEB usage; laying the plies is spreading (Sarkar, 2011).

What does a marker show?

A marker shows how the pattern pieces of one model are placed for a given size distribution and fabric width; preparing it means finding the most efficient placement (Sarkar, 2013). The pattern maker (modelist) standard of the Vocational Qualifications Authority (MYK) asks for the marker to follow the fabric’s pile, pattern and shrinkage, its width and the size distribution, at the efficiency cutting needs (MYK, Modelist, H.1).

Marker width is the fabric width minus edge allowances; marker length is limited by the cutting table (Dutta, 2025; Zhezhova et al., 2019). The marker must match the order’s size distribution, which is checked before cutting (MEB, Final Operations in the Cutting Room). For companies that draw markers, see pattern making and grading services.

Types of markers in the garment industry

Markers are classified by several criteria:

• Number of sizes: a single-size marker holds one size, a two-size marker two, a multi-size marker more than two. In one study, multi-size markers gave higher fabric utilization and reduced the number of plies needed (Zhezhova et al., 2019).
• Direction: in a one-way marker all pieces face the same direction; in a two-way marker pieces can be turned and nested into each other (MEB, Cutting; Đinh et al., 2025).
• Preparation: markers are made manually or by computer; a computer marker can be plotted on paper and placed on top of the spread plies (NZQA, Unit Standard 2846; Sarkar, 2011).

Marker efficiency: definition and a worked example

Marker efficiency is the total area of the pattern pieces in the marker divided by the marker area (length × width), written as a percentage (Sarkar, 2013). As it falls, more fabric is used for the same product.

Example (hypothetical, not a norm): a marker 1.50 m wide and 6.00 m long has an area of 9.00 m². If the pieces take up 7.20 m², efficiency is 80%. This ratio leaves out end loss and end bits; the measure that includes them is called fabric utilization (Sarkar, 2013).

Efficiency is an input to the fabric consumption calculation (fabric width for wovens, fabric weight for knits), so ask which fabric width and efficiency assumption a quote’s per-piece consumption rests on. The target varies by model, fabric width and direction constraint. To run the numbers, use the fabric consumption calculator.

What does “pastal atmak” mean? From marker to cut

According to the MEB spreading module, pastal atmak is laying the fabric ply by ply on the cutting table in line with the cutting order, taking care of pattern, nap and pile direction (p. 16). So it means spreading, not drawing the marker. The cutting room works in this order (MEB, Spreading; Final Operations in the Cutting Room):

1. The marker is prepared; depending on the factory, a pattern maker or a CAD operator draws it (MYK lists this among the pattern maker’s duties).
2. The fabric is spread to the marker (pastal atmak) by the spreader (pastalcı).
3. The spread plies are cut along the marker lines by the cutter (kesimci).
4. The cut plies are numbered (metolama), checked and sorted for sewing.

For the whole flow, see the garment manufacturing process; for services, fabric cutting services and fabric cutting machine suppliers.

Markers on patterned and directional fabric

According to the MEB spreading module, patterned fabric takes a one-way marker because pattern direction matters (p. 14). On velvet and other pile fabrics, pieces are placed so that the pile faces the same way; on plaid and striped fabrics, so that the patterns follow each other (MEB, Cutting). Fabric with no direction or pattern constraint is easier and more economical to lay out. In a men’s shirt study, a one-way marker measured lower efficiency than a two-way one (Đinh et al., 2025). Fabric consumption can therefore increase on velvet, plaid and jacquard with a pattern direction.

Frequently asked questions

What is a marker in garment manufacturing?

The plan showing how a model’s pattern pieces are arranged on the fabric before cutting; Turkish factories call it pastal (pastal planı).

What is the difference between a marker and a lay?

The marker is the layout plan; the lay is the stack of fabric plies spread on the cutting table. The marker, printed on paper by a plotter, can be placed on top of the spread plies for cutting (Sarkar, 2011).

What does pastal atmak mean?

Spreading: laying the fabric ply by ply on the cutting table to the cutting order (MEB, Spreading). The spreader (pastalcı) does it; drawing the marker is a separate job.