CMT Cost per T-Shirt in Turkey: How to Calculate and Compare Quotes
How a Turkish workshop prices CMT T-shirt sewing: the minute-cost formula, what a quote leaves out, a worked example in Turkish lira and a checklist for comparing quotes.
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- Fact-checked by:
- Gizem Polat
Key facts
- A Turkish CMT quote for a T-shirt is a per-piece labor price: standard minutes (SMV) times the workshop's minute cost, divided by efficiency, plus overhead and profit.
- Fabric, trims, printing and, in most quotes, cutting are not part of the sewing price; the quote should state in writing whether each item is included.
- As of October 8, 2026, no sourced price range in TL for contract T-shirt sewing could be found, so the article uses a clearly labeled hypothetical example.
- For 2026 the Turkish minimum wage is TL 1,101 gross per day; a minimum-wage employee costs the employer TL 40,874.63 per month before any social security premium discount.
- In the worked example, efficiency falling from 60% to 50% raises the sewing price by about 20%, so ask every workshop for its SMV and efficiency assumptions.
The CMT cost of a T-shirt is the workshop's labor price per piece: the style's standard minute value (SMV) is multiplied by the workshop's cost per minute, divided by line efficiency, and overhead and profit are added. Fabric, trims, printing and, in most quotes, cutting are not part of it.
This guide shows how that calculation is built, what moves it up or down and how to compare quotes on equal terms. Turkish workshops call this work “fason”, the local word for contract manufacturing, and usually quote it per piece. As of October 8, 2026 we could not find a public, dated price list for contract T-shirt sewing that holds up against independent sources, so instead of a price range the guide gives a hypothetical worked example in Turkish lira (TL) that you can rerun with your own inputs. For the models (CMT versus full package), see contract garment manufacturing; for finding and vetting workshops, see clothing manufacturers in Turkey.
What is included in a CMT T-shirt price?
A quote figure means little until its scope is clear. This guide covers sewing labor only; fabric, trims and printing come on top. For the total cost including fabric and trims, see T-shirt production cost.
Sewing only, cutting included and full package
In Turkish trade usage, “fason” usually means that the brand supplies the fabric and trims. That splits into sewing only (cut pieces arrive at the workshop) and cutting included (the workshop also cuts; CMT, cut-make-trim, “kes-dik-teslim” in Turkish). Full package is a third model: the workshop also sources fabric and trims and sells the finished product at one price. The trade often calls this FOB, although FOB is formally an Incoterms delivery term. A full-package price is a product price, not a sewing fee, so it cannot be compared directly with the calculation here.
What a CMT quote usually leaves out
Ask about each item in the table; a “yes, included” should be written in the quote, not just said.
| Item | Question to ask in the quote |
|---|---|
| Cutting | Is cutting included, or will you send cut pieces? Who owns the marker (the layout plan for the pattern pieces on the fabric)? |
| Sewing thread | Is thread included, and who supplies it? |
| Rib trim and other auxiliary materials | Will the rib knit (the elastic knit used at collars and cuffs) and similar materials arrive with the fabric, or does the workshop source them? |
| Labels | Who supplies the labels? Is attaching them included? |
| Thread trimming, pressing, folding, packing | Which of these are included? Who supplies polybags and cartons? |
| Quality control | Is the workshop's in-house inspection included? Who is responsible for defects found in your own AQL (acceptance quality limit) inspection? |
| Sample | Is the sample charged? Is the fee deducted if you place the order? |
| Printing and embroidery | Priced separately, by a separate workshop. Will printed pieces arrive at the workshop, or will garments be printed after sewing? |
| Freight | Who moves the fabric to the workshop and the goods to you, and at whose cost? |
| VAT | Is the quote exclusive or inclusive of VAT? Have you confirmed the invoicing method with a Turkish accountant? |
How is CMT cost calculated?
A workshop's quote rests on this formula:
Price per piece = (SMV × minute cost ÷ efficiency) + overhead + profit
Standard minute value (SMV) and the T-shirt operation sequence
SMV is the time a trained operator needs for a job at a standard pace; it is also written SAM (standard allowed minute). The ILO's work-study handbook defines standard time as the total time in which a job should be completed at standard performance, expressed in standard minutes or standard hours. The observed time is adjusted for the operator's pace, and allowances for rest and unavoidable delays are added. For a style, SMV is set by time study or with predetermined time standards, which the same handbook covers in a separate chapter.
Building an SMV operation by operation starts with the operation sequence. The MEGEP “T-Shirt Sewing” module of Turkey's Ministry of National Education gives this example plan for training purposes:
- Join the ends of the collar rib or band (overlock)
- Join the shoulders; a stay tape (“ekstrafor” in Turkish) is added to stop the shoulder seam from stretching (overlock)
- Attach the collar rib or band to the body (overlock)
- Attach the sleeves to the body (overlock)
- Join the side seams, starting from the sleeve end (overlock)
- Finish the sleeve openings and the hem (overlock; the module also describes finishing with a coverstitch)
- Fix the sleeve and side seam allowances on a straight-stitch machine
- Trim loose threads
- Final pressing, final inspection and packing
An overlock machine trims the fabric edge while it sews an edge-wrapping stitch. Coverstitch (“reçme” in Turkish) is the stitch used on the hems and sleeve openings of knit garments, with two lines of stitching visible on top and one underneath. Real lines split or merge these operations depending on the style, the machine park and the line layout. Each extra detail, such as a pocket, a slit or a band, adds operations and time, and the sum of the operation times is the SMV of the style.
The workshop's minute cost
The minute cost is what one operator-minute costs the workshop; the workshop's other expenses enter the formula separately as an overhead allowance. The main items:
- Labor: The minimum wage is the floor reference. Turkey's Minimum Wage Determination Commission set the 2026 daily gross minimum wage at TL 1,101 (Official Gazette, December 26, 2025), or TL 33,030 gross per month. The Ministry of Labor and Social Security's calculation table for January 1 - December 31, 2026 puts the monthly cost of a minimum-wage employee to the employer (gross wage plus the employer's social security and unemployment insurance contributions) at TL 40,874.63 without any social security premium discount, and TL 39,223.13 with the 5-point discount given to manufacturing. As of the date of this article, that discount applies to private-sector manufacturing employers until December 31, 2026 under Article 81/1-(ı) and provisional Article 108 of Law No. 5510, provided conditions such as timely filing and payment and no debt to the social security institution (SGK) are met; the workshop's accountant can say whether it qualifies. Operator and foreman wages can exceed the minimum wage, so use the figure in the workshop's own payroll.
- Working time: Under Article 63 of the Labor Law (No. 4857), normal working time is generally at most 45 hours a week; under Article 41, work beyond that is overtime, except where an averaging arrangement applies. Dividing the monthly wage by this time gives the cost per minute.
- Overhead allowance: Rent, electricity, machine maintenance and spare parts, machine depreciation, support staff (pressing, packing, quality, foreman), accounting and insurance.
- Efficiency: Here, efficiency is the pieces produced × SMV divided by the total operator minutes spent (number of operators × minutes worked). Machine breakdowns, waiting for material, rework and style changeovers lower it.
- Profit margin: The margin that covers the workshop's investment and risk.
Worked example (hypothetical)
Warning: Every figure below is an assumption. None of it is a market price or a real workshop's quote. The numbers were chosen only to show how the formula works. Write your own figures in the “Your value” column and rerun the calculation.
Assumptions
| Input | Example value (assumption) | Your value | Note |
|---|---|---|---|
| Operator's monthly employer cost | TL 40,874.63 | For the 2026 gross minimum wage, before any social security premium discount (Ministry of Labor and Social Security, 2026); assumes a minimum-wage employee | |
| Monthly working time | 11,700 min (195 hours) | 45 hours × 52 weeks ÷ 12; paid leave and public holidays are not deducted, so the minute cost comes out lower than the real figure | |
| Efficiency | 60% | Assumption; varies widely with the workshop, the style and the measurement period | |
| SMV of the style | 8.00 min | Assumption; depends on whether pressing, inspection and packing are counted in the SMV. Measure your own style by time study | |
| Overhead allowance | 35% of labor cost | Assumption | |
| Profit margin | 15% of (labor + overhead) | Assumption |
Calculation steps (intermediate values are rounded; all amounts in TL, excluding VAT)
| Step | Formula | Result | Your result |
|---|---|---|---|
| 1. Minute cost | 40,874.63 ÷ 11,700 | TL 3.4936 per min | |
| 2. Cost per standard minute | 3.4936 ÷ 0.60 | TL 5.8227 | |
| 3. Labor cost | 8.00 × 5.8227 | TL 46.58 | |
| 4. Overhead | 46.58 × 0.35 | TL 16.30 | |
| 5. Subtotal | 46.58 + 16.30 | TL 62.88 | |
| 6. Profit | 62.88 × 0.15 | TL 9.43 | |
| 7. Sewing price per piece (hypothetical example, not a market price) | 62.88 + 9.43 | TL 72.31 (example) | |
| 8. In your currency | Step 7 ÷ the TL-per-USD (or EUR) rate you will actually use |
The guide gives no USD or EUR figure for the example: the exchange rate moves and was not one of the sourced inputs, so step 8 is yours. Wages are paid in lira, so a quote in USD or EUR carries an exchange-rate assumption; ask which rate the workshop used.
The result is not a market price, an average or a recommended price; do not use it as a reference when evaluating quotes. What teaches is how the inputs move it. Because overhead and profit are set as percentages of labor, the total changes in the same proportion as labor: if efficiency falls from 60% to 50%, the price rises by about 20%, and at 70% it falls by about 14%. If SMV rises from 8 to 10 minutes, the price rises by 25%; at 6 minutes it falls by 25%. The operator's wage has the same linear effect. So two workshops that pay the same wage can still quote different prices if their efficiency and SMV assumptions differ, which is why you should ask for both.
What changes the CMT price of a T-shirt?
The table shows the direction and mechanism of each factor and what to ask. No sourced data gives the size of these effects, so it contains no percentages or lira figures; the explanations rest on general production logic and vary with the workshop, the style and the fabric. This guide makes no claim about price differences between regions, because no sourced comparison exists.
| Factor | Effect on price | What to ask when you request a quote |
|---|---|---|
| Quantity and lot size | Set-up, machine adjustment and the slow first pieces are fixed work spread over more pieces as the lot grows, and line efficiency may improve. Very small lots can therefore be expensive, and some workshops may not accept them (MOQ). | At which quantity breaks does the unit price change? Is there a minimum? |
| Style complexity | Every extra operation (pocket, slit, band, button, a different collar construction) adds SMV time. An operation that needs a machine the workshop lacks can also affect whether it takes the job. | Have you drawn up the operation list and time for the style? |
| Fabric type and behavior | Single jersey, interlock, elastane (spandex) blends, and thin or slippery fabrics behave differently in sewing; a fabric that slips, waves or stretches a lot can slow the operator and increase rework. See T-shirt fabric types. | Have you sewn a sample in this fabric and measured the time? |
| Size, color and style count | Many colors and sizes often mean more machine adjustment, thread changes and lot separation. The same total quantity in small lots can raise the unit cost. | Does the color and size breakdown change the price? |
| Quality expectations | AQL sampling, in-line checks and measurement checks add inspection time, and defects found can require rework. See AQL inspection for garments. | Which inspection steps are in the price? What happens if the defect rate is exceeded? |
| Lead time and season load | On a short lead time a workshop may have to work overtime; under Article 41 of the Labor Law each overtime hour is paid at the normal hourly wage raised by 50%. When capacity is full, quotes can rise as well. | What is guaranteed for the delivery date? Is there a price difference for a short lead time or for delay? |
| Payment term and currency | A long payment term can raise the workshop's financing burden; in a foreign-currency quote, who carries the exchange-rate risk can affect the price. | How many days? Is there a surcharge for the term? Which currency and which rate date? |
Are there standard CMT price ranges? How to read prices you find online
As of October 8, 2026 we found no price data set with a stated method, and no TL range on which two independent sources agree, for contract T-shirt sewing. Tekstil Rehberi therefore does not print a range: an unsourced range turns into a false reference point in negotiation.
When you read an “average” CMT price online, ask four things. Is it dated? Exchange rates and the minimum wage change, so an old figure loses its meaning. Is the scope clear: sewing only, or with cutting, pressing and packing, and is VAT included? For which fabric, style and quantity was it calculated? And how was it found, since a figure with no stated method cannot be verified? If any answer is missing, do not use the figure as a reference; ranges with far-apart limits do not help a decision either. Do this instead:
- Collect written quotes for your own style on the same scope.
- Ask each workshop for the operation list and the SMV it assumes. Divide each quote by its SMV to get a “price per SMV”, which separates the effect of styles of different difficulty from the effect of different assumptions.
- Run the calculation in this guide with your own inputs and compare it with the quote. If the gap is large, ask which input (efficiency, SMV, overhead, scope) explains it.
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Costs outside the sewing price
The sewing price is only one part of total cost. Other items that belong in the budget:
- Fabric wastage and marker efficiency: If marker efficiency is low, more fabric is used for the same number of T-shirts. It does not show up in the sewing price.
- Sample and pattern fee: A sample garment can be priced separately; have the quote state whether it is free and whether the fee is deducted if you order. For the sample stages, see types of garment samples.
- Defects, returns and wastage allowance: Settle who corrects a defective piece, how fast, at what cost and what wastage allowance is acceptable together with the price. Tekstil Rehberi recommends writing lead time, payment, wastage and quality terms into a contract (see the garment manufacturing agreement guide); take legal advice, because this guide is not legal advice.
- Printing, embroidery, freight and cartons: Printing and embroidery are priced separately (see textile printing methods); moving fabric to the workshop and goods back is a further cost.
- VAT: As of October 8, 2026, section I/C-2.1.3.2.7 of the Turkish VAT General Implementation Communiqué places contract textile and clothing work under partial withholding, applied by the buyer groups the Communiqué lists (VAT payers and designated buyers). The same section makes it a condition of contract work that the raw materials, above all the main raw material, are supplied by the party commissioning the work, and it treats auxiliary materials such as thread and buttons as included in the contract-work fee, so they are not invoiced separately. The rate and calculation are outside this guide. Whether withholding affects an order placed from abroad is a question for the workshop's accountant. Legislation can change, so clarify the invoicing method with a Turkish accountant; this is not tax advice.
Turkish quote terms decoded
| Turkish term | English term | What to note |
|---|---|---|
| adet başı fiyat | price per piece | The usual way sewing is quoted |
| KDV hariç / KDV dahil | excluding VAT / including VAT | Confirm which one the figure is |
| ütü-paket | pressing and packing | Often a separate line |
| teknik föy | tech pack | The document the quote should be based on |
| termin | lead time, delivery date | Keep two dates in the contract: when the fabric arrives and when the finished goods are delivered |
| vade, vade farkı | payment term, surcharge for the term | Ask whether a surcharge applies |
Checklist for comparing CMT quotes
Collecting at least three quotes on the same scope is the practical way to test both the calculation and the price. In order:
- Prepare the documents: A tech pack (measurement chart, stitch types, label positions, packing details) or clear images and a measurement chart; fabric information (type, weight in GSM); the size, color and quantity breakdown; the lead time you need.
- Collect at least three quotes on the same scope: Put the included/excluded questions above to every workshop in the same way, and do not compare quotes before the scope is equalized.
- Settle the sample: Approval, fee and lead time, and put in writing that the approved sample is the reference for production.
- Write down wastage, defect and delay responsibility: Who pays, in which case and how much.
- Set payment and term: Advance, term in days and invoice date; for a quote not in TL, the currency and the exchange-rate date.
- Confirm invoicing and VAT with a Turkish accountant: Whether the price is exclusive or inclusive of VAT, whether withholding applies and which items go on the invoice.
You can put quotes side by side with this template:
| Item | Quote A | Quote B | Quote C |
|---|---|---|---|
| Scope (sewing only / cutting included / full package) | |||
| Price per piece (excluding VAT, with currency) | |||
| Operations included in the price (pressing and packing, label attaching, quality control and so on) | |||
| SMV of the style (the workshop's assumption) | |||
| Price per SMV (price ÷ SMV) | |||
| Sample fee and lead time | |||
| Lead time (days) and penalty for delay | |||
| Responsibility for wastage and defects | |||
| Quality control (AQL) scope | |||
| Payment term and currency (and rate date if not TL) | |||
| Minimum order quantity | |||
| Invoicing and VAT treatment (confirmed with an accountant?) |
Why a very low quote needs an explanation
A quote clearly below the others is not always a problem: a workshop may run at high efficiency, keep its profit margin low to fill capacity, or price a different scope. Still, do not decide before the gap is explained. Watch for three things:
- Scope difference: Pressing and packing, label attaching, thread trimming or quality control may be left out and show up later as extra items. Pressing and packing is run as a separate section under its own supervisor in a workshop, so it may appear as its own line.
- Quality control: A price achieved by cutting inspection steps can come back to you as rework and returns.
- Lead-time risk: A workshop that takes on more work than its capacity allows may deliver late, and overtime costs can come up afterwards.
Ask the workshop for its SMV assumption, its efficiency expectation and the operations included in the price, in writing. If the answers are consistent, the gap may be legitimate. For the criteria to assess a workshop, see how to choose a CMT workshop in Turkey.
Next steps
Once you have run the calculation with your own inputs and brought the quotes to the same scope, the next steps are the agreement and the choice of workshop: see the manufacturing agreement guide and the 10 criteria for choosing a CMT workshop. You can browse firms that do contract sewing on the CMT sewing workshops page; verify every company yourself. The price ranges and the calculation method here are general information; get help from the relevant specialist on the invoice, VAT and contract terms in a quote.
Frequently asked questions
How is the CMT cost of a T-shirt calculated?
The standard minute value (SMV) of the style is multiplied by the workshop's minute cost, adjusted for line efficiency; overhead and profit are then added. The result is the labor price per piece. Ask whether the quote is exclusive or inclusive of VAT. The figures vary with the workshop, the style and the fabric.
What is included in a CMT T-shirt price?
In a CMT arrangement the brand supplies the fabric and, in most cases, the trims; printing and embroidery are priced separately and sit outside the sewing price. Cutting, pressing and packing, label attaching and sewing thread vary by workshop, so every item should be marked as included or excluded in the written quote.
Does the CMT price per piece fall as the order quantity rises?
It can. Set-up and machine adjustment are spread over more pieces and line efficiency may improve. How much it changes depends on the workshop and the style, and because no sourced quantity-price table exists, no fixed discount rate can be given. Ask at which quantity breaks the unit price changes.
Do Turkish workshops have a minimum order quantity (MOQ) for CMT?
MOQ is a commercial condition set by the workshop's capacity, its set-up time and the number of styles; no single figure applies to every workshop. Ask for it in writing at the quote stage, and find out whether the color and size breakdown affects it.
Who carries the exchange-rate risk if a CMT quote is in USD or EUR?
It depends on the agreement, and who carries it can affect the price. Agree in writing which currency applies, which exchange rate and rate date are used for invoicing, and the payment term; a longer term can raise the workshop's financing burden.
Is the CMT sewing price the same as the cost of making a T-shirt?
No. The sewing price covers only labor and workshop costs. The cost of producing a T-shirt is the sum of fabric, trims, printing or embroidery, wastage, freight and the sewing price.
Sources (7)
- Minimum Wage Determination Commission Decision No. 2025/1, Official Gazette, December 26, 2025, No. 33119 (Turkish text; accessed October 8, 2026)
- Republic of Türkiye Ministry of Labor and Social Security (ÇSGB), General Directorate of Labor: Net Minimum Wage and Cost to the Employer (January 1 - December 31, 2026) (Turkish; accessed October 8, 2026)
- Social Insurance and General Health Insurance Law No. 5510, Article 81/1-(ı) (premium discount) and provisional Article 108 (5-point discount for manufacturing until December 31, 2026) (Turkish text; accessed October 8, 2026)
- Turkish VAT General Implementation Communiqué (Official Gazette, April 26, 2014, No. 28983), Revenue Administration (GİB) legislation page, consolidated text including Communiqué Serial No. 58, sections I/C-2.1.3.1 and I/C-2.1.3.2.7 (Turkish text; accessed October 8, 2026)
- Labor Law No. 4857, Article 41 (overtime pay) and Article 63 (working time) (Turkish text; accessed October 8, 2026)
- Ministry of National Education (MEB), MEGEP Garment Production Technology: T-Shirt Sewing (542TGD008) module (Turkish; accessed October 8, 2026)
- ILO, Introduction to Work Study, 4th (revised) edition, 1992 (chapter 23: standard time; chapter 26: predetermined time standards)
Author and fact-checking
Written by
Contract Manufacturing and Workshop Editor
Zeynep Arslan is Tekstil Rehberi's contract manufacturing and workshop editor. She writes practical guides on CMT pricing, contracts, tax obligations such as VAT withholding, setting up a workshop and incentives, and takes tax and regulatory details from official sources in force on the date of writing.
Content by Zeynep ArslanFact-checked by: Gizem Polat
This content was prepared by the Tekstil Rehberi editorial team. Before publication, our verification editor checked its figures, dates and sources against primary sources.
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