What is Oxford Cloth?

Oxford cloth is a woven fabric in basket weave, a variation of plain weave in which two warp yarns are woven together as one; it is used most in shirts. CottonWorks defines oxford as a plain-weave variation in which two warp ends are woven as one yarn. Oxford is a structure name, not a fiber: Random House describes it as a cotton or synthetic fabric. In Turkish the word appears as oxford or oksford; a search of the TDK (Turkish Language Association) dictionary finds neither (accessed October 11, 2026).

Oxford cloth structure

According to CottonWorks, in oxford two warp ends are woven as one yarn and the weft yarn is generally at least twice as thick as the warp; one of the exceptions is pinpoint oxford, in which warp and weft are equally thick. CottonWorks defines basket weave as a plain-weave variation in which two or more warp ends are tied together like plain weave, and lists the 2×1 weave (oxford) among irregular basket weaves. Pratt Institute also names oxford among basket-weave fabrics.

Dictionaries name the weave differently: Collins says plain weave or twill, Random House plain weave, twill or basket weave. So in a technical specification, do not stop at “oxford”; also write the weave, the yarn count and the thread density (ISO 7211-2).

Fiber and look

Random House defines oxford as a cotton or synthetic fabric. A fabric publication writes that it is woven from cotton or a cotton blend and also lists polyester in its FAQ (Knowing Fabric, 2024). The most detailed description of the look comes from a shirt brand: Première Manche describes oxford as a fabric with a slightly grainy texture resembling small woven mats, bulkier and thicker than poplin. It writes that as the yarn gets finer the weft shows less and the look becomes more formal. These are manufacturer statements.

Oxford, poplin and twill

The second meaning of “oxford”: synthetic bag fabric

The name oxford is also used for a synthetic fabric woven from polyester or nylon in basket weave, which can be coated with PU or PVC; a denier value such as “600D” is written next to the name. A sourcing-consultancy guide (Sourcify China, 2025) describes this fabric as 100% polyester or nylon, used in backpacks, tents, luggage and outdoor furniture covers. This is a different product from shirting oxford. State in the order which one you mean.

What to specify when sourcing oxford

1. State the use: cotton shirting oxford, or coated synthetic oxford?
2. Write the fiber percentages: cotton, polyester and blends do not behave alike.
3. Specify the weave and the yarn: oxford or pinpoint? To put yarn counts on a common scale, use the yarn count converter.
4. Get the weight together with its method: a g/m² figure plus the standard it was measured to, ISO 3801 or EN 12127. For a figure quoted in oz/yd², the fabric GSM calculator converts it.
5. Ask for oxford's post-wash size change: the value is taken by ISO 5077, with washing and drying to ISO 6330 procedures. Before cutting, set the allowance with the fabric shrinkage calculator and work out the yardage with the fabric consumption calculator.

A general comparison of fabric families is in the fabric types guide; for sourcing, see the Poplin and Shirting Fabrics, Woven Fabrics and Shirts categories.

Frequently asked questions

What is the difference between oxford and poplin?

Poplin is a 1/1 plain weave with a smooth surface. Oxford is a plain-weave variation: two warp yarns are woven as one, and the weft is mostly at least twice as thick as the warp (CottonWorks). Seen up close, the texture of oxford is visible (Première Manche).

Is oxford cloth breathable?

Oxford cannot stop sweating either; the body cools itself by perspiring, and the fabric only influences how quickly sweat is absorbed and evaporates. Fiber matters: in Annex IX of the EU fibre-labeling regulation (1007/2011) the agreed moisture regain is 1.5% for polyester and 8.5% for cotton. Suganthi et al. (2024) examined knitted samples and report that water-vapor permeability is governed mostly by structure, weight and thickness; lighter, thinner, looser constructions let more through. A shirt brand describes oxford as bulkier and thicker than poplin (Première Manche); do not treat these two pieces of information as a substitute for measurement, because the result varies with weight, yarn and finish. Two measurements give the firm answer: air permeability (EN ISO 9237) and resistance to water vapor (EN ISO 11092). Method details are in breathable fabrics for summer.

Does oxford cloth wrinkle or shrink?

One shirt brand writes that oxford wrinkles little, but that oxford fabrics tend to shrink (Première Manche). Both are manufacturer statements; have a sample washed and check the wrinkling and the dimensional change.